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What makes rose, white and green gold?

The metal that gives each colour its tint, and the exact gold content that stays fixed at every karat while the recipe for the rest is a maker’s own.

Colour

Rose gold (and pink, red)

Copper-dominant, usually with a little silver

Pink, rose and red gold are the same recipe at different copper proportions — there is no fixed boundary between the names, and different makers draw the line differently.

Whatever the colour, the gold content itself does not change — an 18K rose ring and an 18K white ring both hold exactly 75% pure gold, because karat is a legal and arithmetical fact independent of colour. What changes is how the remaining 25% is split between the metals above, and that split is set by whoever made the alloy, not by any standard.

What each alloying metal does to the colour

MetalPulls the colourWhy it's used
CopperToward redThe rose and red gold agent. More copper in the mix, deeper the red — from a warm pink at low proportions to a coppery red at high ones.
SilverToward pale, slightly green-yellowUsed in yellow gold to keep it from skewing orange, and alongside copper in rose gold to soften the red toward pink. Used with zinc, and no copper at all, for green gold.
ZincToward pale yellow-greenA minor addition in many yellow and green gold alloys, mainly for castability rather than colour.
NickelToward whiteThe traditional white gold whitener, and the strongest of them — but a common cause of skin allergy, which is why palladium alloys exist as an alternative.
PalladiumToward whiteA nickel-free way to whiten gold, more expensive than nickel and the reason "palladium white gold" is sold as a premium, hypoallergenic option.

What stays fixed, karat by karat

StampGold contentRemainder — the colour recipe
9K · 37537.5%62.5% — maker's own alloy
10K · 41741.7%58.3% — maker's own alloy
12K · 50050.0%50.0% — maker's own alloy
14K · 58558.5%41.5% — maker's own alloy
15K · 62562.5%37.5% — maker's own alloy
18K · 75075.0%25.0% — maker's own alloy
20K · 83383.3%16.7% — maker's own alloy
21K · 87587.5%12.5% — maker's own alloy
22K · 91691.6%8.4% — maker's own alloy
23K · 95895.8%4.2% — maker's own alloy
24K · 99999.9%0.1% — maker's own alloy

Why there is no percentage table for the colours themselves

Search for "rose gold alloy percentages" and you will find confident-looking tables — and they disagree with each other, because none of them is quoting an actual published standard. There is no body that legislates the copper-to-silver ratio inside 18K rose gold the way the UK Hallmarking Act legislates that 18K means 750 parts per thousand gold. Every refiner and manufacturer runs their own recipe, tuned for colour, hardness and casting behaviour, and reasonably keeps the exact figures to themselves. A number printed here would look precise and be no more than a guess, so it is not printed.

Nickel and skin

Nickel is the cheapest and most effective white-gold whitener, and it is also the commonest metal to cause a contact allergy — itching or a rash under a ring or behind earring backs. Palladium-based white gold costs more precisely because it avoids this. If a white gold piece irritates the skin, the alloy is the first thing worth asking about, not the karat.

One number is exact; the other is not, and this page is honest about which

Karat is a legal and arithmetical fact. 18 karat gold is 75% pure gold — 18 parts in 24 — by definition, and that figure does not move regardless of who made the piece, what colour it is, or where it was sold. This site's karat converter and every melt-value calculator on it rely on exactly that fixed relationship, and it is why they can quote an exact figure rather than a range.

What is not fixed, anywhere, is the recipe for the remaining fraction — the 25% left over at 18K, or the larger remainder at lower karats. That portion is split between copper, silver, zinc, nickel and palladium in proportions each manufacturer sets for themselves, to hit a target colour, hardness and casting behaviour. There is no law or trade body publishing a standard rose-gold or white-gold recipe the way the UK Hallmarking Act publishes 750 for 18 karat. Search for one and you will find plenty of confident-looking percentage tables online — and they disagree with each other, sometimes sharply, because none of them is quoting an actual regulated figure. This page gives the mechanism instead: which metal pulls the colour which way, and why, without pretending to a precision the industry itself does not publish.

The mechanism, metal by metal

Pure gold is yellow. Alloying it with copper pulls the colour toward red — more copper, deeper the red, which is the entire difference between a subtle "rose" gold and a much redder "red" gold sold by some makers; there is no fixed percentage boundary between the names. Silver pulls the other way, toward a paler, slightly green-tinged yellow, and is used both to keep plain yellow gold from skewing orange and, alongside copper, to soften rose gold's red toward pink.

White gold works differently: nickel or palladium is added specifically to cancel gold's natural yellow rather than to shift it toward another hue. Even a well-alloyed white gold comes out of the crucible a pale greyish yellow rather than true white, which is why almost all white gold jewellery — regardless of maker — is finished with a thin rhodium plating for the bright white most people picture. That plating wears thin over years of contact, and a white gold ring quietly warming toward yellow is the plating going, not the gold underneath changing.

Green gold is the least common of the four, made with silver and zinc and little or no copper. It is a subtle effect — closer to a cool, slightly muted yellow than anything resembling grass-green — which is part of why it stays a minority choice.

Common questions

What makes rose gold pink?

Copper. Alloying gold with copper pulls its natural yellow toward red; at lower copper proportions the result reads as pink or rose, and at higher proportions as a deeper red. The exact copper percentage that produces "rose" versus "red" is a manufacturer's own choice, not a published standard.

Is 18K rose gold the same amount of gold as 18K yellow gold?

Yes, exactly. Karat measures the fraction of pure gold only — 18K is 75% gold whatever the colour. The colour comes entirely from what makes up the other 25%, which is where rose and yellow gold differ.

Does white gold contain any actual gold?

Yes — the karat rule applies to white gold exactly as it does to yellow: an 18K white gold ring is 75% pure gold, alloyed with nickel or palladium to whiten it, then usually plated with rhodium for the final bright white finish.

Why does my white gold ring look yellow after a few years?

Almost all white gold is finished with a thin rhodium plating over an alloy that is naturally a pale grey-yellow, not true white. As that plating wears from daily contact, the warmer colour underneath starts to show through — the gold itself has not changed, and a jeweller can re-plate it.

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